This 18th-century windmill has recently undergone an extensive renovation to welcome the return of one of the country’s most forward-thinking chefs, Kamilla Seidler. Having spent much of the past six years in La Paz, Bolivia, Seidler helped found one of South America’s foremost restaurants with Gustu, based on the seasonal principles of the New Nordic food manifesto. But with Lola, she’s moving things on with a wider-roaming roster of dishes influenced by Indian and Central American cooking. A highlight is squid podi in fermented beurre blanc sauce; another is inspired by the El Salvadorean pupusa, a kind of pita bread, served with kimchi and horseradish cream; and there’s a surprisingly hearty paratha with Indian spices and a double helping of the Scandinavian staple, celeriac. For pudding, chanterelle ice cream with buckwheat and salted caramel really shouldn’t work but does.
To drink, the limited-edition oolong-Mirabelle kombucha by local company Læsk is addictive. Best of all, the quality of the food is underscored by considerations of sustainability, and several of the staff are hired and trained as part of a programme to employ those from the fringes of the labour market. Offering a contrast to the capital’s other headline-grabbing new restaurant, Rasmus Munk’s epic, multi-million-dollar playground Alchemist, Lola is at the forefront of the new global social gastronomy movement.
This 18th-century windmill has recently undergone an extensive renovation to welcome the return of one of the country’s most forward-thinking chefs, Kamilla Seidler. Having spent much of the past six years in La Paz, Bolivia, Seidler helped found one of South America’s foremost restaurants with Gustu, based on the seasonal principles of the New Nordic food manifesto. But with Lola, she’s moving things on with a wider-roaming roster of dishes influenced by Indian and Central American cooking. A highlight is squid podi in fermented beurre blanc sauce; another is inspired by the El Salvadorean pupusa, a kind of pita bread, served with kimchi and horseradish cream; and there’s a surprisingly hearty paratha with Indian spices and a double helping of the Scandinavian staple, celeriac. For pudding, chanterelle ice cream with buckwheat and salted caramel really shouldn’t work but does.
To drink, the limited-edition oolong-Mirabelle kombucha by local company Læsk is addictive. Best of all, the quality of the food is underscored by considerations of sustainability, and several of the staff are hired and trained as part of a programme to employ those from the fringes of the labour market. Offering a contrast to the capital’s other headline-grabbing new restaurant, Rasmus Munk’s epic, multi-million-dollar playground Alchemist, Lola is at the forefront of the new global social gastronomy movement.